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{original 2005 caresheet}

If raising hatchlings to become "proven" breeders..
and "starting" their hatchlings to "eat right out of the box"
means anything .. then you may want to consider the following.
And since it has taken several years by dedicated tortoise breeders to compile this info..
unless you have a "photographic" memory ( we certainly don't have..
which is why it has taken us several years )..
you definitely will want to refer to this on a regular basis.
To date.. ( Dec. '09 ).. we have hatched well over 200 redfoot tortoises.. something is working!

I am here to help in any way that I can. When you have a Q? about redfoot tortoises..
there's a real good chance you can find the answer here.. or Redfoots.com above!

Please do yourself and me a favor..
please read over the area that you have in Q at least 3 times.. and THEN if it's still not clear
do yourself and me and especially your redfoot a favor..
email.. turtletary@turtletary.com and ask!

This "Caresheet" has been compiled from various sources..
and now over 10 years of my own personal experience with Redfoot Tortoises.
My female breeders , raised from hatchlings, must be healthy and happy..
they are producing consistently!
They started laying eggs in their 6th year.. at about 10 1/2"-11".
The males were young (10").. so I suspect they hadn't yet reached their sexual maturity.
"Most" of their first eggs were dead.. .. and there were several.. the girls were doing their part!

'07 produced the highest % of fertile eggs.. so they are becoming 'proven' breeders!

***Still [ '09 ] not the percentages that they are capable of.. according to "long-term"
breeders with 'older.. established' breeding groups.
So I have to keep in mind that mine are still "young" in many ways!
Plus I'm always dealing with weather that isn't always the best "conditions" for them.***


Notice that this "Caresheet" focuses on getting your tortoise started right.. the first year!
We believe it's too easy to "over-supplement" the first year.. especially!!!
In fact.. quoting a major sulcata breeder..

"One of the biggest medical problems..
with hatchling tortoises today.. is overdosing of vitamins."

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I'm "updating" as the Q's come in.. read thru first.. feel free to ask -

Once the temps are close to 70F I will take the "yearlings"..
(and younger).. outside for fresh air!
They will eat and then run for cover.. they don't like the sunshine.

The adults are out for the summer as soon as it gets above 65F consistantly..
but brought in in the fall when it gets in the mid-60's or less!

ON AN AVERAGE.. MY SUB-ADULTS AND ADULTS
ARE OUTSIDE 6 - 7 MONTHS OUT OF THE YEAR..
WHICH HELPS WITH THEIR D3 REQUIREMENTS

turtletary@turtletary.com
931.742.0078 - central - 9a~7p

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LIGHTING: Redfoot tortoises are near "Rainforest" tortoises.

They live on the edges of the forest.. which means they don't need a "basking" area.
My "indoor" enclosure ( for my breeders ) has ( 2 ) 18" strip lights at two different locations..
with "plant/aquarium" bulbs so they can see what they are eating!
UVB is NOT an issue with redfoot tortoises.. D3 is derived primarily from their diet.
Mine breed and lay eggs inside .. sometimes in the dark!

While outside, they are grazing.. or napping in the shade/tall clover..
but most of the time they are in their "hide"!
So if adults are happy with virtually no UVB..
your hatchling certainly does not need their eyes fried out with it.
They spend the first couple of years laying low.. away from preditors..
out of the direct sun and sight.. wouldn't you think???
Many believe.. and I agree.. " too much" UVB is bad for little hatchling eyes!

IF YOUR HATCHLING/YOUNGSTER IS UNDER THE LIGHT A LOT..
THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE HE'S TRYING TO GET WARMER!

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HUMIDITY: The # 1 priority for redfoot hatchlings!
These tortoises start out as eggs (brilliant observation.. huh?).. in almost muddy soil.
They require high levels of humidity. As soon as these hatchlings are out of the 'nursery'..
and eating on their own.. they are "misted".. while eating as well as in their hide.
This can be accomplished by "misting" with a simple "spray-bottle"
throughout the entire enclosure.. daily.
These little guys do require some care daily!
My adults are most active during a summer rain!
You can't get redfoot tortoises too wet!

I have never "soaked" any of my tortoises.. just provide a water dish for them..
they somehow "mess-it-up" almost daily.. anyway!!!
The water dish is "chin-deep".. so it's easy to climb out of..
so you don't need to "force" soaking on them..
they will figure it out for themselves!!!!!!!!!

See how muddy they start out..

Click on pics to enlarge...

DIET: The main source of D3!

I agree with other principle tortoise breeders..
they maintain that allowing your young tortoise "daily" natural sunlight..
is the best thing for them ( amount based on breed )..
however in the winter this is not always possible.
Being a redfoot tortoise breeder.. I have never been concerned with the D3 issue..
since mine receive the best "high calcium" greens
and "animal protein" as their diet.. year round.
"We" agree that too much Vit. D is much worse than not enough.
The only "supplements" I have ever used.. is pure Calcium Carbonate with NO D3.

About "Half?" of my redfoot tortoise's diet consists of fruit & protein.. combined!
A source of animal protein is vital also..
{ redfoot tortoises are much more carnivorous than most believe or will accept! }.
Their main source of D3 is derived from their diet. Sound like I'm trying to make a point?
I also ( per Andy Highfield.. see link below ) use a "weight-management"
type dry catfood every 7 days or so.. well moistened until soft..
and "dowsed" with pure Calcium Carbonate powder (no D3)..
( wait until your hatchling is 6 monthsold/over3" or so before "supplementing"
with protein and calcium on a weekly basis )
Always remember..
protein and calcium goes a long way!

This is what I am now using..

My choice on Cat food..

http://www.proplan.com/products/WeightManagement_DryCat.html

My choice on Calcium..

You should be able to find this in just about any "Health-food" store.

If you don't do anything else for your Redfoot tortoise.......

Read and adhere to these guidelines in these links..
when you want a healthy and happy redfoot tortoise for life.
These links have been an important source
in the successful rearing of my hatchlings - adults.

Finally..

Many of the "outdated" thoughts on protein and humidity..
that has produced serious "PYRAMIDING".. are now changing.

The "up-to-date" guidelines.. that produce smooth and healthy juveniles..
are now gradually being accepted!
{ Pic documented results are found thru-out this Caresheet }

http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/feeding_redfoots.html

http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/webdiet.htm

Seldom banana.. never tomato ( too messy and creates the "runs" )..
light on kale.. if at all.. no spinach. Strawberry, peaches,
pineapple, plums.. whatever is in season.
Grape leaves, Hibiscus leaves and flowers, dandelion greens,
endive, escarole, turnip greens.. and collards
are greens of choice.. { highest in calcium in that order }.


Feed your hatchling "once" daily.. whatever they don't eat at one setting..
discard.. PERIOD.. too much is bad for their kidneys!
A good plentiful water source is Vital also!

DO NOT RUSH THEIR GROWTH!!

MY FEEDING SCHEDULE.. first 2 days "greens alone".. next day "fruit alone"..
next 2 days "greens alone".. next day "fruit treat" - pineapple or something different..
next day "animal protein" (NOT Mazuri.. protein level too low & not animal source).
Sprinkle re-hydrated cat food with Calcium Carbonate powder (no D3).
"Chop/slice" everything small enough.. "bite-size"
-- Again.. these are all at least 6 months/3"

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HOUSING: They have to be comfortable for good health!

I start hatchlings in a "sweater box" ( 16"x24"x6" ) with an 18"
( kitchen under-cabinet type ) fluorescent fixture..
laid across the top.. remove the cover and turn away from the back half.
Moistened "spag moss" is where they "hide".. where they crawl up into.
A small "butter-lid" works fine as a water dish..
and no "substrate" is really needed at this point.

When you are ready to provide a "juvenile" set-up.
I have recently re-built the "tort-tables".. and am using the "Spag-moss"
( used to start these little guys ).. as their substrate.
They love digging into it to hide. And remember once a substrate is added..
be sure to provide large feeding "plate" to help avoid possibilty of ingesting it.

Shown is a very simple and effective set-up for a hatchling.. the very way I get them "started"!
The blue cover is just a lid from a smaller container. An inexpensive "under-the-cabinet"
fixture with the cover removed provides the light..
no UVB required for the first 6 months .. your option - ( I have yet to use UVB inside.. ever ).
This set-up ( without "heat-emitter" ) is fine where temps are above 80 F.
Remember mine are in a room where it stays warm..
see below for smaller set-up requiring heat-emitter!

I replaced "factory tube" with an aquarium/plant light.

LOOK HERE: Once again Wiggles came thru..
he and I have created a
perfect "Heat-Emitter" set-up for smaller enclosures..

http://www.redfoots.com/emitter/color.htm

..this is what you get when you follow it!

Hatched in late Feb.'05 - One day old.. see his egg-tooth?

After 2 months.. smooth even growth..

Almost 5 months.. still smooth even growth..

Now over 9 months.. perfect carapace.. not quite 3 1/2"

MY FIRST COLOMBO HATCHLING AT ONE YEAR..
FOLLOWING CARESHEET ABOVE..

Other "YEARLING" examples..

First "Sonshine" hatchling..

And "BUTTERSCOTCH".. look how smooth..

From hatching to above.. no UVB bulb ever used - whenever taken outside.. would eat and then go to "hide". ONLY supplements ever used has been Calcium Carbonate with NO D3 and high protein cat food..
and then not until at least 6 months old/ 3" long.. once a week.
Fresh water (daily) about "chin deep" provided so they could do what they wanted to.
Our redfoots have NEVER been soaked (no need).. have been "misted"of course until they drip often.. every day!

If your redfoot tortoise looks like it's "crying" all the time..
it's because it's too dry!!!


Keep your hatchlings warm and wet.. plenty of fruit and lots of
good high calcium greens - and don't fry their eyes out with all that UVB.
Keep it simple and effective as described above.. and they will be your "friends for life".

The above works for me.. have fun and enjoy your REDFOOT!!!

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Email.. turtletary@turtletary.com
931.742.0078 - central - 9a~7p
After 7p.. email me and I'll call back ASAP

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The above is the original "Caresheet" written sometime in '05..
very little "tweeking" has occured over the past 5 years..
the BASICS are still the basics!

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Results you could/should expect...

"Butterscotch" from egg - ( watch the 'dates' in the pics! ) -

June '07 -

From hatchling to 3 years 8 months.. level growth..
I'll figure it out sooner or later!

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Arrowhead late '06 -

Still a little "eggtooth" visible..

He was 'sold' and then returned in June '08..

Have no idea how was kept or fed.. didn't grow..
Sept. '08.. still "smooth"..

July '09..

Colors now changing..
Jan. '10.. growing "smooth"!

I just love the "pattern" all over his head and nose..

Another beautiful.. well grown redfoot!

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"Revised" Diet:

UP to 6 months -

Feed your hatchling what they will eat in 10 minutes or so.
If they walk away from anything then that is too much being offered.
It is far better to "underfeed" than "overfeed".
With more than one they may have their own eating habits..
so it is important to monitor each one.. don't let one eat everything!

Pick from these that are readily available from your "produce source"..
and get them on a good diet habit..

In order of calcium content:
Grape Leaves, Hibiscus (blooms & leaves), Dandelion Greens,
Curly Endive (not belgian) /Chicory, Escarole and Collard Greens.

Although a variety is good no doubt..feed what is available per season..
or what the "Produce Mgr." can order for you..
you may be surprised what you can get when you ask!
No reason to feel that you are betraying your baby
because you can only find a few things in the winter.. for example!

The feeding "schedule" should be as follows:
Days 1 and 2: Greens only as above..avoid Kale and no Spinach! Why??
Kale is high in everything - like a 'steroid' - not a staple!
Spinach has similar!
On "greens" day we do not feed fruit because they often sort thru
and only want to eat the fruit.. like a kid and candy!

Day 3: Fruits only such as Strawberry, cantaloupe, plum, peach, pineapple, etc.
Most anything from "south of the border"!
I seldom if ever feed citrus fruits such as oranges, grapefruit, lemons..
( inside especially ).. maybe outside.
Tomatoes are high in acid and tends to cause 'runny-stool'!
"Seldom" Bananas!!! They would probly become addicted.. given the chance!

Repeat days 1-3

At 6 months the hatchling diet can now be supplemented.
This is at about 3" SCL... if he's bigger...it's DIET TIME!!!

6 Months - Yearlings

The main 2 differences at 6 months and older would be that they
can now be offered a source of animal protein.
Again this is the schedule that we have used and
the results speak for themselves.

Nothing has changed much from above as far as the "protein-source".

Adjust for amount as they grow..
this is the basic "procedure" of how to prepare..

I would place the catfood into their bucket and add enough "filtered" water
to cover the catfood. [ you'll learn the amount of water with experience ].
Stir it a few times while it is absorbing the water.
It will about double in size and still have a 'firm' consistency..
it should not become mushy!
Offer a 6-12 month old 2 to 3 pellets ONCE a week.
Sprinkle lightly with the Calcium carbonate powder above..
( a 'cuttlebone' can also be made available for them to nibble at will )
Calcium carbonate is 'water-soluable' which means it is
not retained in their system.. it washes right out.
It is virtually impossible to O.D.!
The catfood also contains D3 for those concerned about that!

The other difference with your youngster is how often they are fed!
Don't be afraid to skip a day feeding each 5-6 days.
It is always better that they be hungry than overfed!!!
Remember it takes probly 5 days to digest for a redfoot tortoise!

Yearlings thru Sub-adults

Redfoot tortoises grow real fast the first 4 or so years!
My yearlings are typically 4".
My '05's are approaching 8" SCL.
{ new pics ASAP }
Generally speaking once they are 7-8" SCL
they are all together with the adults!

The only real difference is AMOUNT and how OFTEN they are fed.

Outside in the early spring and summer..
when the weeds are sprouting, etc. they are allowed to "graze"
and I'll scatter some fruit a couple times a week around their enclosures
so they have to "hunt" for it! Then in large trays I'll offer the catfood
about each 10 days or so.

Adults

They are all fed about every 3 days..
and they seldom walk away from anything.
I will seldom if ever feed them anything that is not on the list..
even Romaine lettuce! They have water available at all times
and outside the sprinkler system is run if it doesn't rain
at least every other day.. which saturates everything.

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"Revised" Enclosures:

New - Hatchling thru Yearlings:

Nothing has really changed..
the basic enclosure set-up is the same.
Still using this great stuff..

Be sure to read all about.. mosserlee.com
and follow the links when you get there!
Still used in the 'younger' redfoot hides!

New - Yearlings thru Sub-adults:

This 'indoor' enclosure is below the Hinge-back table.
And since it is so low to the floor the front walls
are 'hinged' for easier access..

Notice how it is lined with the 'vinyl' the same way all of the tables are.

Viewed from the 'light' end you see their hide, 10" waterdish..
and the 24" bulb [ no UVB ] which lights their 32" x 14' enclosure.
In the background are Tropical Hibiscus.

New Adult Enclosures:

Males 'indoor'-
The males are separated from the females during the winter months
while the females finish their 'nesting'.. and it gives them a little rest
which seems to help for when they are re-introduced outside in the spring.

This entire building stays in the low to mid 80's
and I also run a "warm-air" humidifier!

This is a 'free-standing' table mounted on 'rigid' rollers..
and measures 32"x 8'. Currently shown with an 18" light.
Viewed here from the 'hide' end.

Light end..

They had to find out what all of the camera "flashing" was about..

Females 'indoor'..

This enclosure is also 32" wide and runs the entire 20' length
of the building. As you can see it's about 2 1/2 ' off of the floor which
allows room for storage [ junk ]!.. underneath. I'll get a pic from the "end" ASAP.
The "hide is 4' square.. and you can see a hatchling tub on top.

From the "hide" end..

That's "SONshine" ( far right ) with her back to us!
She's off to a good start for the 2010 season..

In the process of laying eggs -

The typical "nesting trance" -

SONshine is approaching 14" SCL!!!

As soon as the night time temps get back into the mid 60's
they are all taken back outside into their outside enclosure 24/7.

More "editing" & pics coming soon!

How to use Vinyl for lining the tort table

Note: This method can be used for Hatchling - Adult Enclosures.
Just adjust for size.

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