If raising hatchlings to become "proven" breeders.. and "starting" their hatchlings to "eat right out of the box" means anything .. then you may want to consider the following. And since it has taken several years by dedicated tortoise breeders to compile this info.. unless you have a "photographic" memory ( we certainly don't have.. which is why it has taken us several years )..
you definitely will want to refer to this on a regular basis.
To date.. ( Aug. '07 ).. we have hatched upwards of 200 redfoot tortoises.. something is working!

I am here to help in any way that I can. When you have a Q? about redfoot tortoises..
there's a real good chance you can find the answer here.. or Redfoots.com above!

Please do yourself and me a favor..
please read over the area that you have in Q at least 3 times.. and THEN if it's still not clear
do yourself and me and especially your redfoot a favor..
email.. turtletary@turtletary.com and ask!

This "Caresheet" has been compiled from various sources..
and now soon to be 9 years of my own personal experience with Redfoot Tortoises.
My female breeders , raised from hatchlings, must be healthy and happy..
they are producing consistently!
They started laying eggs in their 6th year.. at about 10 1/2"-11".
The males were young (10").. so I suspect they hadn't yet reached their sexual maturity.
"Most" of their first eggs were dead.. .. and there were several.. the girls were doing their part!

'07 has produced the highest % of fertile eggs.. so they are becoming 'proven' breeders!


Notice that this "Caresheet" focuses on getting your tortoise started right.. the first year!
We believe it's too easy to "over-supplement" the first year.. especially!!!
In fact.. quoting a major sulcata breeder..

"One of the biggest medical problems..
with hatchling tortoises today.. is overdosing of vitamins."

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I'm "updating" as the Q's come in.. read thru first.. feel free to ask -

Once the temps are close to 70F I will take the "yearlings"..
(and younger).. outside for fresh air!
They will eat and then run for cover.. they don't like the sunshine.

The adults are out as soon as it gets above 65F..
but brought in at night when it gets in the low 60's or less!

turtletary@turtletary.com

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LIGHTING: Redfoot tortoises are near "Rainforest" tortoises.

They live on the edges of the forest.. which means they don't need a "basking" area.
My "indoor" enclosure ( for my breeders ) has ( 2 ) 18" strip lights at two different locations..
with "plant/aquarium" bulbs so they can see what they are eating!
UVB is NOT an issue with redfoot tortoises.. D3 is derived primarily from their diet.
Mine breed and lay eggs inside .. sometimes in the dark!

While outside, they are grazing.. or napping in the shade/tall clover, but most of the time they are in their "hide"!
So if adults are happy with virtually no UVB.. your hatchling certainly does not need their eyes fried out with it.
They spend the first couple of years laying low.. away from preditors.. out of the direct sun and sight.. wouldn't you think???
Many believe.. and I agree.. " too much" UVB is bad for little hatchling eyes!

IF YOUR HATCHLING/YOUNGSTER IS UNDER THE LIGHT A LOT..
THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE HE'S TRYING TO GET WARMER!

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HUMIDITY: The # 1 priority for redfoot hatchlings!
These tortoises start out as eggs (brilliant observation.. huh?).. in almost muddy soil. They require high levels of humidity. As soon as these hatchlings are out of the 'nursery'.. and eating on their own.. they are "misted".. while eating as well as in their hide. This can be accomplished by "misting" with a simple "spray-bottle" throughout the entire enclosure.. daily. These little guys do require some care daily!
My adults are most active during a summer rain!
You can't get redfoot tortoises too wet!

I have never "soaked" any of my tortoises.. just provide a water dish for them.. they somehow "mess-it-up" almost daily.. anyway!!! The water dish is "chin-deep".. so it's easy to climb out of.. so you don't need to "force" soaking on them.. they will figure it out for themselves!!!!!!!!!

See how muddy they start out..

Click on pics to enlarge...

DIET: The main source of D3!

I agree with other principle tortoise breeders.. they maintain that allowing your young tortoise "daily" natural sunlight..
is the best thing for them ( amount based on breed ).. however in the winter this is not always possible.
Being a redfoot tortoise breeder.. I have never been concerned with the D3 issue..
since mine receive the best "high calcium" greens and "animal protein" as their diet.. year round.
"We" agree that too much Vit. D is much worse than not enough.
The only "supplements" I have ever used.. is pure Calcium Carbonate with NO D3.

About "Half?" of my redfoot tortoise's diet consists of fruit & protein.. combined!
A source of animal protein is vital also.. { redfoot tortoises are much more carnivorous than most believe or will accept! }.
Their main source of D3 is derived from their diet. Sound like I'm trying to make a point?
I also ( per Andy Highfield.. see link below ) use a "weight-management" type dry catfood every 7 days or so..
well moistened until soft.. and "dowsed" with pure Calcium Carbonate powder (no D3)..
( wait until your hatchling is 6 monthsold/over3" or so before "supplementing" with protein and calcium on a weekly basis )
Always remember..
protein and calcium goes a long way!

This is what I am now using..

My choice on Cat food..

http://www.proplan.com/products/WeightManagement_DryCat.html

My choice on Calcium..

You should be able to find this in just about any "Health-food" store.

If you don't do anything else for your Redfoot tortoise.......

Read and adhere to these guidelines in these links.. when you want a healthy and happy redfoot tortoise for life.
These links have been an important source in the successful rearing of my hatchlings - adults.

Finally..

Many of the "outdated" thoughts on protein and humidity..
that has produced serious "PYRAMIDING".. are now changing.

The "up-to-date" guidelines.. that produce smooth and healthy juveniles..
are now gradually being accepted!
{ Pic documented results are found thru-out this Caresheet }

http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/feeding_redfoots.html

http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/webdiet.htm

Seldom banana.. never tomato ( simply too messy and creates the "runs" which isn't needed )..
light on kale.. if at all.. no spinach. Strawberry, peaches, pineapple, plums.. whatever is in season.
Grape leaves, Hibiscus leaves and flowers, dandelion greens, endive, escarole, turnip greens..
and collards are greens of choice.. { highest in calcium in that order }.


Feed your hatchling "once" daily.. whatever they don't eat at one setting.. discard.. PERIOD.. too much is bad for their kidneys!
A good plentiful water source is Vital also!

DO NOT RUSH THEIR GROWTH!!

MY FEEDING SCHEDULE.. first 2 days "greens alone".. next day "fruit alone".. next 2 days "greens alone".. next day "fruit treat" - pineapple or something different.. next day "animal protein" (NOT Mazuri.. protein level too low & not animal).
Sprinkle re-hydrated cat food with Calcium Carbonate powder (no D3). "Chop/slice" everything small enough.. "bite-size"
-- Again.. these are all at least 6 months/3"--

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HOUSING: They have to be comfortable for good health!

I start hatchlings in a "sweater box" ( 16"x24"x6" ) with an 18" ( kitchen under-cabinet type ) fluorescent fixture..
laid across the top.. remove the cover and turn away from the back half.
Moistened "spag moss" is where they "hide".. where they crawl up into.
A small "butter-lid" works fine as a water dish.. and no "substrate" is really needed at this point.

When you are ready to provide a "juvenile" set-up.
I have recently re-built the "tort-tables".. and am using the "Spag-moss" ( used to start these little guys )..
as their substrate. They love digging into it to hide. And remember once a substrate is added..
be sure to provide large feeding "plate" to help avoid possibilty of ingesting it.

Shown is a very simple and effective set-up for a hatchling.. the very way I get them "started"! The blue cover is just a lid from a smaller container. An inexpensive "under-the-cabinet" fixture with the cover removed provides the light..
no UVB required for the first 6 months .. your option - ( I have yet to use UVB inside.. ever ).
This set-up ( without "heat-emitter" ) is fine where temps are above 80 F.
Remember mine are in a room where it stays warm.. see below for smaller set-up requiring heat-emitter!

I replaced "factory tube" with an aquarium/plant light.

LOOK HERE: Once again Wiggles came thru..
he and I have created a
perfect "Heat-Emitter" set-up for smaller enclosures..

http://www.redfoots.com/emitter/color.htm

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Here's how the above works.. this is what you get when you follow it!

Hatched in late Feb. - One day old.. see his egg-tooth?

After 2 months.. smooth even growth..

Almost 5 months.. still smooth even growth..

Now over 9 months.. perfect carapace.. not quite 3 1/2"

MY FIRST COLOMBO HATCHLING AT ONE YEAR..
FOLLOWING CARESHEET ABOVE..

Other "YEARLING" examples..

First "Sonshine" hatchling..

And "BUTTERSCOTCH".. look how smooth..

From hatching to above.. no UVB bulb ever used - whenever taken outside.. would eat and then go to "hide". ONLY supplements ever used has been Calcium Carbonate with NO D3 and high protein cat food..
and then not until at least 6 months old/ 3" long.. once a week.
Fresh water (daily) about "chin deep" provided so they could do what they wanted to.
Our redfoots have NEVER been soaked (no need).. have been "misted"of course until they drip often.. every day!

If your redfoot tortoise looks like it's "crying" all the time..
it's because it's too dry!!!


Keep your hatchlings warm and wet.. plenty of fruit and lots of
good high calcium greens - and don't fry their eyes out with all that UVB.
Keep it simple and effective as described above.. and they will be your "friends for life".

The above works for me.. have fun and enjoy your REDFOOT!!!

"ONLY" CAPTIVE BRED.. CAPTIVE BORN..

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